KONG KONG!

How is the morning? Hope there are no troubles? Have you woken in peace? How are your people? Hope there are no troubles?

Greetings are essential to survival and success in The Gambia. You greet, and continue to greet throughout the day. No event is more important than a greeting. I like to spend at least an hour or two walking around each day just greeting people. It’s great to help me get to know people, find out people’s roles in village, and learn everyone’s name. In that respect, living in an area where families inter-marry has made life a bit easier on me. About 1/3 of the village’s surname is Sameteh, another 1/3 is Drammeh (including me), and you have 1/3 other names like Ceesay, Dibba, or Fatty.

There would be no way for me to give you a “typical” day for me here in the Peace Corps. I have no set work schedule or job description. As an extension worker, I am expected to determine community need, find motivated groups or individuals, and work towards goals we set together. People often complain that there are no opportunities to make money in the village, to some extent, they are right; infrastructure is lacking, resources are limited, and the educational system is poor; but I see so much potential in the people in my village to improve their lives. They don’t need thousands of dollars in aid money or a milling machine; they need to recognize this potential. As Margaret Mead said, “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has.” I did not come here to change people or this culture, instead, I want to help people improve their own lives. Improvements don’t need to be world changing though, maybe learning how to dry mangos so you’re children can get vitamins all times of the year or planting a few trees.

The women’s garden in coming along nicely – slowly slowly (domanding domanding) – as we would say here in Gambia. The fence is almost finished, it was tougher to motivate the men to work than the women, but they promised to finish it on Thursday. We hired a contractor to put in three open wells, for now, so his crew will start on Monday. And, I’m trying to convince the women’s group to start a communal compost pile to improve the soil quality and ultimately increase crop yield with plant material, cow dung, urea, vinegar, and sugar. I’m really excited about this garden and other community gardens in my area. I’ve unfortunately seen so many defunct community gardens and am trying to work towards SUSTAINABILITY – what is going to last beyond my two years here and for decades to come.

My village had a woman’s training center for many years, but it hasn’t been used much at all for the past few years. At the group meeting, several women expressed interest in starting it up again. These could be the small group of dedicated individuals I am looking for! These women aren’t looking for fame or fortune – just to improve their situation. Maybe learn how to sound out words and simple math. My mind is racing constantly with ideas, projects, income-generating activities, health and environmental education classes…but I’ve got to remind myself, domanding domanding, we need to determine the community need and set realistic goals. It is exciting to be surrounded by motivated individuals and be able to work with women.

Gender roles and expectations has been one of those issues I’ve been struggling to understand and accept completely. As a feminist, one who belives men and women should be given equal opportunity, respect, and choices, it’s difficult to live in a culture where women are subservient to men. The woman do it all, all the cooking, cleaning, fetching water, working in the fields…the list goes on…But they say it’s part of their culture, part of their religion; that men are the “masters” because Allah/God gave women to man to serve them. But the women accept this, so if it is their choice, are they empowered? I’m having a hard time seeing the women as empowered and equally having a difficult time building trust and respect with the men because of this. I do not interject my opinion, but simply observe and learn, for I am living in their culture.

Culture differences definitly keep me laughing each and every day. One day last week, I wasn’t feeling too well- it was probably the oil in the bennechin- and I just wanted to rest and sleep it off. I told my host family that, and they gave me some traditional root medicine and said, “May God make you better.” I said thank you and went into my hut to sleep. In our culture, most friends or family members would check in one you once in a while, but give you space. But here, I had ½ the village coming to send there greetings and prayers. As soon as I would start to sleep another person would knock on the door, “KONG KONG!” (that’s what people say when they knock on your door). I would get out of bed, tell them I was starting to feel better and try to get back to sleep and then an hour later KONG KONG…at first it was frustrating, but I just had to laugh. They all have only good intentions. Got to learn to embrace the KONG KONG’s.

Today since I was in town, I bought a beesuit so I can start going out harvesting with some beekeepers and I’m really excited for all the little projects that have come up. I’ve started working in nearby villages with the women’s gardens. I can’t tell you for sure what the future holds for me in Jali village, but I can tell you that I am smiling everyday, learning the language – domanding domanding, and making great friends. Thank you all for your letters/emails/ etc. I am so blessed. Whenever you are feeling down, just remember how great each day is- the whole world is conspiring to shower us with blessings.

Pictures from Village!

Here is a picture of the wall dividing the "parlor" from the "master bedroom". Notice the thatched roof with plastic to help stop the rain from getting in, pretty amazing!

This is in the front room, directly to the right from when you come in the front door.

This is on the opposite side of the front room/parlor. The truck has all my food in it, on the table are all my bowls and such and my water filter. My gas stove is on the floor.

This is my bathroom. My plush pit latrine and bucket for bathing. Do you really want to know what the kettle is for?

This is my backyard. The tree nursery is in the front, but the trees will be planted very soon! There are papaya and moringa trees planted along the straw fence!

Here is the "master bedroom" or backroom. I have all my cards hanging up above my bed, but you can't see them!

Here is the water pump where I fetch water. Buba, my host brother is demonstrating how to use it...

Here is the pathway leaving the village. My friend Janke lives in the compound to the right and the water tower in the background is where I get cell phone reception and is a solar tank that supplies water to the whole village, except when it's cloudy.

Here is the mosque in the middle of the village and to the left is the bitik- or shop. The shop owner insists that everyone calls him "50 cent".

Some kids near my compound playing "jump the stick". Talk about making fun out of nothing!

This is the goat that my family slaughtered for the naming ceremony for my new baby sister, Mariam Numi. Halimatu, my 4 year old sister in the front right is holding it's leg. I told her that was not safe and to put it down, but that made her cry.

I love this picture of week-old Mariam Numi because she has one eye open!

The neighbor women came over to help cook food for the village- porridge in the morning with sour milk, and then way-too-oily rice, called bennechin, and goat in the for lunch.

Here are some of my friends pounding the shells off rice. Habie (my ntoma/namesake, because we have the same name), Mariam, and Geneba.

Kebba Sameteh is squatting with little Abas, Halimatu is sitting, and Ousman is "brewing attaya", a strong china green tea that the men drink all day long. Don't drink it at night if you want to get to sleep at a reasonable time- it's highly caffeinated!

Fatumata, my host mom, before she gave birth with little Ousman- 17 months old.

Pretty typical afternoon cracking peanuts.

I couldn't teach anyone how to use my camera, so tried to take a picture of myself with Isatoo and Silifundi- my 2 neighbor friends.

Women's garden site, the women gathered the water to make the concrete for the fence posts.

My host siblings Halimatu, Ousman, Alaigie, and Buba.

Jali Bolong- the River Gambia- about 7 km from my village. BEAUTIFUL! I wish I had pictures of the mangroves!

So, some fishermen in my village killed one of the most endangered species in the area- the manatee. Then they cut it up and we all ate it with our lunch the next day. Good, but very fatty.